Debbest: Shopping in the Shuk

Before I lived next to Shuk Machane Yehuda, I used to occasionally buy some specialty foods there but the rest was pretty much a mystery to me.  Having spent the last four years shopping regularly in the shuk, I have come to learn the ins and outs of where to shop for the best produce.  Some of my favorite stalls are not always the cheapest but they either have the best produce and/or staff that I trust not to rip me off, so here is my guide to shopping in the shuk.

  1. Meat – Mizrachi Butchers

I discovered this place by accident but later found out that many of my friends, including two chefs, also get their meat there.  Mizrachi has a great selection of meats, it is clean and Nissim is always friendly and very helpful.  Don’t worry if you don’t know the Israeli number system for meat, just tell him what you plan to cook and he will give you the right cut of meat.  He also recently started stocking antibiotic-free chicken and often has duck and other specialty products.

Insider Tip –  open late on a Friday afternoon and closed on Sunday.

Mizrachi Butchers (Kosher), 13 HaCheruv Street (corner of HaTut), Nissim Mizrachi, 02 624 3939/050 785 4569.

  1. Fish – David Dagim

You might be able to find cheaper fish in the shuk, but David Dagim is unbeatable on selection and quality so I personally prefer to pay a bit extra and know that I am getting the freshest fish. There is always a line of people from all over the city waiting to order and receive recommendations from the owners.  They will prepare and pack the fish however you want it and they deliver.

Insider Tip – ask for sushi grade fish to make your own sushi. Closed on Sunday

David Dagim (Badatz), 15 HaShaked Street, 02-586 7640 – English order form online.

  1. Fruit – Open Shuk

The great thing about fruit in Israel is that you mostly get local fruit that is in season so you can be sure that it is fresh and usually well priced (here is a calendar of local produce).  From my experience, the Yaffo end of the open shuk (Machane Yehuda Street) is the best place to buy fruit based on price and quality.  There are some places in the closed shuk that have better quality but their prices are much higher.  There is no particular place that I buy everything but between the various stalls on both sides of the street, I look around, compare the quality and prices and find what I need.

Fruit in Machne Yehuda (from machne.co.il)

  1. Vegetables – Iraqi shuk

If you enter the Iraqi shuk from the main entrance in the middle of the open shuk, at the end of the first alley is a large vegetable store on the left. There is always a great selection of well-priced fresh vegetables.  The store opposite can be cheaper butthe selection and quality is not as good.

I buy my lettuce and fresh herbs from a small store further into the Iraqi shuk, opposite Argento (at the end of the first alley, turn right and the store is the second on the left).  I will sometimes buy radishes, green beans and individual potatoes from the various stores further into the Iraqi shuk which all seem to specialize in a few specific types of vegetables.

  1. Spices – Ras el Hanut

There are so many spice stores in the shuk, it is mostly a matter of personal taste and for years I shopped at Pereg as they have a great selection of loose spices, as well as pre-packaged jars.  But when Ras el Hanut opened a new store earlier in the year, I jumped ship.  The store is not only large and well laid out, I find the quality to be very good, the staff incredibly helpful and the products well priced.  They provide spice mixes for restaurants in the area like Hatzot, Jacko’s Street, Machneyuda, Rachmo and Pinati and will help put together your own spice mix on request.

As well as buying spices and some grains from them, I also like that they will grind nuts to order and you can request if you want a fine meal or chunky.  They also have a great selection of dairy and parev chocolate buttons which are ideal for melting for chocolate desserts.

Ras el Hanut (Kosher), 72 Agripas Street, corner of HaArmonim Street, 02 641 1711, online orders and delivery available. All loose products are Badatz.

  1. Bread – Teller Bakery

Most restaurants in Jerusalem get their bread supplied by Teller Bakery. Although there is a small stand in the shuk, the full selection of their breads is only available from their store. The majority of their breads are sourdough, except the focaccia and challot and if you get there early enough on a Friday, they do great wholegrain challot. As well as some specialty flavored breads, they also make special rolls for making soup in a roll.

Favorite food – blueberry and walnut sourdough.

Insider Tip – all their bread and pastries are sold for half price at the end of each day at 18:45 and 30 minutes before closing on a Friday– but be warned, there is always a line and it is a literal “bun-fight”. The breads freeze very well, even when sliced.

Teller Bakery (Mehadrin), main bakery @74 Agripas with a stand in the shuk @Eliyahu Banai Street, corner of Etz HaChaim Street, 02 622 3227.

 

  1. Coffee – Roasters

Coffee lovers will be glad to know that one of the best coffee shops in the city is in the middle of the shuk.  Roasters offers delicious coffee to sit and watch the world go by, take away and drink while you shop or freshly ground coffee to take home.  There is also a selection of cakes and pastries to accompany your coffee.

Favorite food – Cortado coffee, ice-coffee and almond & raspberry tart.

Roasters (Kosher), 20 HaAfarsek Street, 054 671 0296.

  1. Dips and Salads – Ma’adanei Tzidkiyahu

One of the oldest and most famous delis in the shuk, Ma’adanei Tzidkiyahu serves the best selection of take-away dips and salads in the city.  They also have a great selection of fried foods like cigars, schnitzel and kubbe (meat or vegetarian).  A great place for buying take-out food on a Friday but be prepared to wait in line.

Favorite food – Moroccan cigars and spicy grated carrot salad.

Ma’adanei Tzidkiyahu (Kosher), 70 Etz HaChaim Street, 02 624 3322/ 054 694 9403, catering available.

  1. Cheese – Basher Fromagerie

If cheese is your thing, then look no further than Basher Fromagerie for the best selection of cheeses in the country.  The Basher brothers are the main cheese importers in Israel and they stock cheese from all over the world that cannot be found in many places in Israel.  Not all the cheese in the store is kosher, so if that is an issue for you, make sure you ask to see the hechsher.

If you prefer a fully kosher shop, the dairy Tzidkiyahu deli (opposite the meat deli on Etz HaChaim Street) has a great selection of kosher cheeses including authentic kosher Parmigiano Reggiano.

Insider Tip – the staff at Basher are always happy to let you try before you buy but they are also good sales-men and will try to sell you more than you want.

Basher Fromagerie (No Hechsher), 53 Etz HaChaim Street, 02 625 7969, telephone orders available.

 

  1. Pastries @ Taam Tam

This unassuming bakery, on the outskirts of the shuk, houses an authentic French patisserie with fresh and flaky croissants in various flavors and an incredible display of cream cakes and desserts. Taam Tam also has some parev pastries and challot on a Friday. The cakes are on the expensive side as they are very intricate but the croissants are similar prices to other places and far superior in quality.

Favorite food – pain au chocolate with almond.

Insider Tip – pastries bought on are Friday are still delicious on Shabbat morning, especially if warmed up.

Taam Tam (Mehadrin), 151 Yaffo Street, 053 522 6406 –catering available.

Real French Croissants in the heart of Jerusalem #taamtam #foodieisrael #shuk #jerusalemfood

A post shared by Restaurant Club Israel (@restaurantclubisrael) on

  1. Health Food – Hadasa Teva

Although the shop is small, it is well stocked and has better prices than the other health stores in the area, with friendly and knowledgeable staff. I buy most of my grains by the weight here, such as oats, rice and quinoa, and unlike many other stores in the shuk, I have never had a problem finding bugs inside (although I always put them all in the freezer for 24 hours just to be safe). They have a great selection of chocolate, including some artisanal low sugar and dairy free options.

Favorite food – coconut water with pineapple and Holy Cacao chocolate bars.

Insider Tip – they sell 12 large organic eggs at a fixed price of NIS 19 and often have special offers on other items.

Hadasa Teva (Kosher), 2 Beit Yaakov Street (near the corner of Yaffo), 02 664 4332 – online orders and delivery available. Most products are Badatz.

For more information about shops in the shuk – take a look at the official shuk website (although it is very out of date!) and a helpful map of the shuk by tour guide Fun Joel.

Click here to read more of Debbest.

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Round Tables Culinary Festival – November 2017

Israel might not have its own Michelin restaurants but the American Express Round Tables Festival bring a taste of Michelin to Israel for the third time.  A total of 60 chefs and restaurateurs from 14 restaurants worldwide will once again take part in the international culinary festival.

Each international restaurant pairs with a leading Israeli restaurant to serve a tasting menu featuring signature dishes of the guest chefs, with a local twist added by the Israeli hosts.  Before the festival begins, the Israeli chefs spend a training period in the restaurants abroad and begin the preparations for the event.

Of the 14 international restaurants involved this year, two of them hold two Michelin stars, six hold one Michelin star and three have been listed as the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.  Among the visiting chefs will be Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura of Maido in Peru, who is ranked number eight in the world and is the highest-ranking chef to ever participate in the festival. He will be cooking at Japanese Bistro Ya Pan in Tel Aviv.

Maido Peru - Vegan Cheesecake

Maido Peru – Vegan Cheesecake

L’Air du Temps from Belgium, led by the Korean-Belgian chef Sang Hoon Degeimbre, will bring its two Michelin stars to Pastel and 7132 Silver, located at a luxury spa hotel in the Swiss Alps (two Michelin stars) will join Chef Shahaf Shabtay in the Nithan Thai kitchen.

This year the festival includes a kosher restaurant where Mallorca’s Andreu Genestra Restaurant (one Michelin star) will partner with Dan Tel Aviv’s Hayarkon 99.  For the first time, the festival is not restricted to Tel Aviv and Jerusalem’s Mona will host British restaurant The Elephant (one Michelin star).

The full festival runs October 29 – November 17 but the individual restaurant events last around five days each.  Tickets range from 269 to 399 NIS per person for a five-course meal without drinks, with special offers for holders of Israeli American Express cards. Some of the events are already sold out so if you are interested in taking part, book your tickets soon.

All the information about the restaurants involved is on the festival website, https://www.roundtablestour.com/en/.

Ricard Camarena Restaurant Spain – Mango Maduro Curry

La Padella brings a taste of Europe to the Jerusalem Shuk

Breakfast and More Morning to Night

Street food options in Jerusalem’s Mahaneh Yehuda market are plentiful, with new places opening up all the time. But for those of us who sometimes prefer to sit in a proper café and enjoy an indulgent brunch, the options are more limited. Luckily, La Padella has changed that.

The restaurant has a diverse menu that includes more than 10 types of breakfast, as well as an interesting selection of sandwiches, salads, rich main courses and decadent desserts. Located in the space where Café Mizrachi once stood, La Padella has quickly become popular with both locals and groups touring the shuk (it can seat up to 25 people at a long table).

As with many places in the shuk, at night La Padella turns into a bar with a less than standard wine and cocktail menu and a well-stocked bar. We enjoyed a refreshing glass of Psagot White Seven (NIS 30/glass and NIS 95/bottle) with our meal but hope to go back soon to try the cocktails.

Click here for the full review in The Jerusalem Post

French breakfast

Mac & Cheese

Cheesy Fries

La Padella, +972(0)2 624 2105, Kosher Mehadrin

Foodie score 7/10, FODMAP friendly score 7.5/10

Jacko’s Street: A Winning Combination

Jacko’s has all the right ingredients for a memorable dining experience

If eating at a restaurant was just about the food, then I don’t think the restaurant industry would survive. A dining experience is not just about the food but rather the whole experience, including the service and the ambience. Many restaurants in Israel fail by not considering the experience they offer diners.

Jacko’s Street opened four years ago in Jerusalem and was the first kosher chef restaurant in the Mahaneh Yehuda market area. As the small streets around the shuk started to fill with more and more eating options, the popularity of Jacko’s also grew. In my opinion, the success of Jacko’s Street is due to its understanding that it is important to offer people more than just great food.

Click here for the full review in The Jerusalem Post

Asado Credit Sivan Shuv Ami

Asado Credit Sivan Shuv Ami

Goose Liver Semolina Cake

Beef Fillet Credit: Sivan Shuv Ami

Beef Carpaccio Credit: Sivan Shuv Ami

Fish Bruschetta

Jacko’s Street, +972 (0)2 581 7178, Kosher

Foodie score 9/10, FODMAP friendly score 8/10

Getting Steamy in the Shuk

UPDATE: March 2017 – Steam is currently closed until further notice.

Over the last few months, new eateries have popped up in and around the Jerusalem shuk, so it is sometimes hard to keep a track of them all. One of these new places is Steam Kitchen and Bar, owned by a young US oleh, Chananya Rosenthal.  As a lover of fast food, Chananya has planned to open a place in the shuk for some time and was lucky when a small shop became available on Rehov Haegoz (up from Fishnchips and opposite Shuka Bar).  This strip is particularly busy at night when the fresh food stalls close and the bars and restaurants take over.

According to the Steam Facebook page, they serve steamed buns filled with classic American sandwiches but Chananya recently decided to change to classic Israeli fillings for his steamed buns.  I’ll be honest, I was disappointed as I was looking forward to a Reuben, kosher BLT and quails eggs that others had raved about.

For now the menu is very limited, soup of the day to start, shawarma or pargit steam bun sandwiches (NIS 27) or schnitzel salad (NIS 30) with steam bun croutons. Steam’s selling point is that all the ingredients in their sandwiches are high quality and homemade – which I am in favor of, but I didn’t taste enough of a difference to make me want to come back to Steam, rather than going to my favorite local shuk guy across the street to get a huge laffa for around the same price.  There is no doubt that the quality of the steam buns served are great.  The dough is made fresh every day and they steam the buns to order, but in my opinion, they need to create a menu that differentiates themselves more clearly from that which is on offer around them, in order to attract customers who have so many delicious places to choose from.

Now let’s talk cocktails, because to me, that is Steam’s USP (Unique Selling Point) and something which will have me going back for more.  The popularity of cocktails is growing at a rapid pace in Israel, with new cocktail bars opening up all over the place and restaurants have also caught onto the trend and are improving their cocktail menus. However, until recently, you couldn’t get real cocktails in the shuk itself – well you can now!  The Steam cocktail menu features 10 fairly classic cocktails, all for NIS 37, and lovingly prepared using high quality ingredients.  The simple Gin and Tonic uses Bombay Sapphire gin with Fever Tree tonic – a must for any true G&T lover but very rare to find in the shuk, let alone most restaurants in Jerusalem.  The Bourbon Lager with Jack Daniels, Drambuie, lemon juice and lager is a great cocktail for anyone averse to sweet drinks. The Sweet Arak is a delicious mix of arak, lemon juice, dry martini and mango syrup but what makes the drink are the caramelized lemon wedge and burnt star anise served on-top.  I found it a tad too sweet but I will definitely try it again and request less mango syrup.  They also have a selection of beers from Moscow Microbrewery near Bet Shemesh.  The best news is that Steam run a happy hour from 3-7pm with buy one get one free on cocktails per person.

Steam is still in the development stages and I really hope that they manage to find their niche in an increasingly competitive market but one thing is for sure, Chananya has a real passion for what he does and his aim is to serve Jerusalemites with food that they enjoy and makes them happy.

He is open for both lunch and dinner and although there is currently no hechsher, he is planning to get Hashgacha Pratit.

FODMAP friendly score 2/10, Foodie score 6/10.

Open Restaurants come to Jerusalem – November 22-26 2016

For those that haven’t heard of Open Restaurants, think Open Houses but for restaurants – the restaurants open their doors for visitors to poke around their kitchen and see where the magic really happens.  The concept was developed in Tel Aviv four years ago and has since expanded to London, Amsterdam and now Jerusalem

The culinary festival will include a variety of events related to chefs, restaurants and local culinary personalities.  Special events include a cocktail party on the Light Rail, Jerusalem chefs giving special tours of the Israel Museum and a Mad Hatters Tea Party at Alliance House.

Several popular Jerusalem restaurants will open their kitchens for special workshops and dinners, among them Machneyuda, Hamotzi, Adom, Rama’s Kitchen, and Azura.

There will also be a series of food walks including around the Old City and Machane Yehuda shuk by day and night. Bitemojo, the self-guided food tours app initially developed in Berlin market will make its Israeli début with two separate tours. Some of the city’s leading hotels, including Alegra, American Colony and Herbert Samuel will offer workshops with their chefs and special rates for accommodation.

While most of the events will be held in Hebrew, there will also be some events in English including food walking tours of the ultra-orthodox neighborhoods, an evening/night tour starting in the Nachalat Shiva neighborhood and ending in the shuk. Food writer Nomi Abeliovich will lecture on Ottolenghi’s Anthology: Memories, traditions and Jerusalem food in English and there is also a guided tour of Machane Yehuda in English for children.

Information on all the events can be found on the festival website http://open-restaurants.co.il but there is very limited information in English even about the English-speaking events!

Raising a glass in a classic surrounding

There is no question that the setting and the décor of the King David hotel is regal and simply walking through the lobby of the hotel to get to The Wine Bar is an elegant journey.  Set off of the main hotel lobby with similar décor and lighting, the bar still has a very hotel lobby feel to it.

The choice of wine on the menu is incredibly impressive and what is particularly special is the selection of great wines available by the glass – a selection that is updated regularly.

Click here for the full review in The Jerusalem Post

Read a previous review of La Regence here.

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The Wine Bar (Photo Credit: Uri Ackerman)

 

 

Michmoret – grilled fish in the shuk

I live right next to Machne Yehuda – the Jerusalem shuk, and as much as I love seeing all the new amazing places that keep opening, street food normally includes gluten of some kind so I cannot eat in any of those places.  A shame but don’t worry, i don’t suffer!

Up until now, I have stuck to grilled meat because it is the easiest on a FODMAP diet, but tonight I was showing some friends from the US around the shuk and we decided to eat in Michmoret – the fish restaurant by the owners of FishnChips.

It took awhile for the waitress to come over but once she did, she was incredibly helpful and did everything she could to make sure i had an enjoyable meal.  The menu is very simple – there is a choice of about 8 types of fish which you can order whole or filleted, grilled or fried.  The fish comes with a side or either potatoes or mixed vegetables and a selection of salads and bread to start – all for a set price of 75 NIS which is great value.  The vegetables included onion, potatoes and tomatoes – all of which are no good for me – with green beans – so she was happy to just give me green beans.

Make sure to tell them about not eating garlic as they normally put garlic on the grilled fish.

The salads came and she made a special effort to tell me which ones didn’t have onion or garlic in them and put them in front of me.  One was cabbage which I didn’t try but I enjoyed the simple kohlrabi salad and the delicious olives while my friends demolished.  She also brought me a special portion of bread as the main bread had garlic in, i didn’t have the heart to tell her i couldn’t eat that either.

2016-02-02 20.40.33The fish came with a green salsa on the side which she originally said i could have and only once i had already tried a bit did she come back and say it did have garlic in – but I had luckily only had a small amount.  The beans were also covered in sesame seeds – which is not great for me but I ate them anyway.

It happened to be a freezing night outside and their heating wasn’t working and it is very drafty even inside the restaurant but the food was delicious and the service was extra helpful.  It was also a treat to enjoy some freshly grilled fish and the best part is how reasonable the price was.

FODMAP friendly score 8/10, foodie score 7/10. I will definitely go back. Kosher.

FODMAP in the Holy City

There is very little information about FODMAP friendly places in Israel in general but from my experience, Jerusalem restaurants are more willing to accommodate changes in dishes on the menu more than in Tel Aviv.  I will try to share my suggestions of where to eat and where to avoid.  I was inspired to create these tips and list by this great blog based in NYC, http://www.fodmapinthecity.com/.

Here are some general tips for eating in restaurants in Israel:

  1. Do not bother to explain the full FODMAP limitations, the most important ones for most menus is gluten free, no onion, garlic or sauces.
  2. Always tell the server that you are allergic to onion and garlic – they do not understand the term intolerance, they will just think you are just being difficult.
  3. Insist that they write on your order no onion or garlic even if they say the dish you ordered does not contain either- i have sent back so many dishes where the menu didnt mention onion, the server didnt think the dish had onion or the kitchen added something as a garnish.
  4. Make sure you explain that onion includes all types of onions, white onion,  red onion and green onion (what they call scallions/spring onion).
  5. When ordering a salad, always ask for the dressing on the side – even if they say they are giving you olive oil and lemon, they will often put on something else.  If you get the dressing yourself, you should be able to see that it is right, or at worse try a small amount.
  6. Do not be afraid to ask for something special.  Some places will accommodate, some wont but if you dont ask, you wont find out.

I will add specific suggestions in the blog posts that will follow but for now here is a list of places I have tried and their FODMAP friendly score.

FODMAP friendly

  • Josef’s Burger, Jerusalem: 10/10 – burger no bun, goose breast or fried egg and side salad or burger salad or gluten free bun (for those who can eat corn).
  • Mitzi’s, Shuk, Jerusalem: 8/10 – burger or sliced steak on a bed of salad.
  • Cafe de Paris, Jerusalem: 8/10 – grilled fish and green beans
  • Chakra, Jerusalem: 8/10  – recommended dishes steamed salmon and green vegetables or steak and beans.
  • Trattoria Haba, Jerusalem: 6/10 -good for breakfast but other food is harder.
  • Machneyuda, Jerusalem :8/10  -grilled fish or steak with green vegetables.
  • Hasadna, Jerusalem: 8/10 – grilled fish or steak with green beans.
  • Michmoret, Shuk, Jerusalem: 8/10 – full review here.
  • Pasha, Tel Aviv: 7/10 – grilled pargit and grilled zucchini.  No starter salads suitable.
  • Carmelli Bagels, Sarona Market, Tel Aviv: 10/10 – make your own salad bar without a bagel.
  • Marinado, Sarona Market, Tel Aviv: 10/10 –  burger no bun and side salad or any grilled meat.
  • Agadir Burger, Tel Aviv and Herzliya: 9/10 – Angus burger no bun, goose breast or fried egg and green beans (all other burgers have onion in the meat mix).
  • Yankale, Herzliya Pituach: 9/10 – salad Nicoise or quinoa salad.
  • The Notre Dame Cheese and Wine Restaurant, Jerusalem 9/10- grilled salmon with steamed vegetables.
  • Fishop, Sarona Market, Tel Aviv 7/10 – grilled fish with green beans

FODMAP Unfriendly

  • Black Burger – 1/10 – all burgers have onion in the meat mix,  salads are pre-mixed and chicken came with a sauce all over even when asked without.
  • Derby Fish Bar, Tel Aviv: 3/10 – very unhelpful, no FODMAP friendly side dishes.
  • Biga, Tel Aviv: 0/10 – refused to accommodate menu changes so left.
  • Roy’s Chocolate Cafe, Sarona Market: 0/10 – very unhelpful.
  • Lumina by Meir Adoni, Tel Aviv: 2/10 – very unwilling to accommodate.
  • Santa Katarina, Tel Aviv: 5/10 – only agreed to change the dish when the chef came to tell me he couldn’t take responsibility for it tasting good!
  • Fresh Kitchen: 2/10 – most components of the salad are premixed so could not accommodate changes.

Modern dining in classic surroundings

The historic building that houses the 1868 restaurant has recently been redecorated to be more in line with the contemporary style of the cuisine. Chef and owner Yankale Turjeman is a native Jerusalemite and previously worked as head chef of the former 1868 dairy restaurant and at Kadosh. Having spent a few years working in London, he returned to Jerusalem to run 1868, bringing European style and finesse to the menu.

Click here for the full review in The Jerusalem Post