Russian Compound | Single in the Holy City

Why is this year different from all other years? Because we have a whole week of Hol Hamoed so most restaurants and cafes are open for Pesach to take advantage of the influx of tourists in the Holy City. It also means that things are going to be busier than ever and traffic in Jerusalem will be a nightmare – my advice – avoid driving and make reservations!

Lara Restaurant

Many of my recommendations from last year still stand, so check out my blog from Pesach 2011. There have not been many new restaurants in Jerusalem this year but other places open for Pesach worth mentioning are Lara on Midrochov Ben Shetach (click here for an earlier post) and Modern in the Israel Museum which I still have not tried but I have heard it is great (open all day and kitniyot free).

This year I want focus on the melting pot of cultures that makes Jerusalem so wonderful and the great food that accompanies that culture. For those who eat kitniyot and want a truly authentic unique experience head to the Russian Compound to Darna and/or Racha.

Darna Restaurant

Entering Darna is like an Aladdin’s cave of treasures. All the decor, furniture and dishes are brought in from Morocco and even the waiting staff are in traditional Moroccan dress. Although you cannot eat couscous on Pesach, the menu is still full of delicious Tagines and other aromatic Moroccan dishes. Take a look at the full menu to tempt you.

Just around the corner on Rehov Havazelet is Racha, a family-run authentic Georgian restaurant. It is definitely worth a visit during the year for their homemade bread and cookies but I am sure it will be a great experience over Pesach. Here is a recent post about Racha.

For those who do not eat kitniyot, head over to Emek Refaim to La Boca for a South American feast. They have posted copy of their Pesach menu on their website, click here and you can also get a 15% off coupon here.

Rooftop Restaurant – Mamilla Hotel

Finally, if you are looking for good food with the best view that money can buy, head to the Rooftop restaurant of the Mamilla Hotel. In my opinion, they serve the best Entrecote (Rib-Eye) (129₪) in the city but the Butchers Cut with roasted tomatoes and tahini (91₪) is also very good. The dessert menu changes and will for sure be different on Pesach but they serve the best parev vanilla ice-cream I have had so far in Israel – I could not believe it was not dairy!

For a list of other places open for Pesach with contact numbers, click here.

Update: this restaurant has since moved to Tel Aviv

In the heart of the Russian Compound on Rehov Havazelet is Racha, a family-run authentic Georgian restaurant, named after the region in Georgia the family are from. Much of the furniture and decor was brought over from their family homes in Georgia and the restaurant has a definite European feel to it.

Mother Tina is the inspiration behind the menu and has trained her son as the chef. Daughter Lily is the manageress and greets diners with a warm Georgian welcome. The menu has a huge variety of dishes so ask the waiters for their recommendations but here are some of my own.

Ispanahi

For starters, I loved the Ispanakhis, spinach tapenade with walnuts in wine vinegar (24₪); Patrigianni, eggplant wrapped around a walnut and herb paste (27₪) and Kinzmari, sliced chicken breast in a ground nut sauce (22₪). There were lots of other salads dishes to choose from and you order a selection of 7 starters for 114₪ or 14 starters for 224₪. The homemade bread was delicious and the pastries were nice but not so different from meat burekas and cigarim except for the Tkhemali sauce made from green plums.

The main course options include numerous beef and lamb stews, including gizzards which I was not brave enough to try. On recommendation I tried the Chanakhi, layers of lamb with potatoes, eggplant, tomatoes and herbs – I found it very fatty. I can recommend Khalia, beef casserole with pomegranate and onion sauce, served with rice or mashed potato and the Entrecote, grilled with Georgian spices.

Even if you have eaten too much at this point in the meal, you cannot leave without trying the selection of homemade Georgian cookies. Made by Tina herself, they were among the most delicious cookies I have had.

Racha also has a great selection of wines, we had a delicious bottle of Sandro by the Alexander Winery, which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. . For an authentic Georgian experience, as for a shot of Chacha – traditionally drunk from a horn or “shofar”, this Georgian vodka which is a type of brandy is once again homemade.

I have been a few times, for an intimate meal and a group celebration. It is a large restaurant and it gets very busy so do not go if you are looking for a quiet romantic meal! There is nothing gourmet about this place but it is good honest home-cooked style food. The restaurant attracts many local Georgians who seem to all know each other and late at night, after a few shots of Chacha, they often have live music and all start dancing, so if you are looking for a new experience, head down there and join in the fun!